Seal the dusty gaps around a window air conditioner at an invited east Yakima home

East Yakima homes fight two things at once in summer: heat and blowing agricultural dust. A window air conditioner installed with open gaps lets both straight in, so the unit runs harder and the house still fills with grit. Foam and seal kits close those gaps in an afternoon. Standard: DOE do-it-yourself air-sealing guidance; SDG 7 (Affordable and Clean Energy). Proof: before/after photos of each sealed gap around the unit Method (DOE do-it-yourself air-sealing guidance; SDG 7 (Affordable and Clean Energy).): 1. Confirm the host's invitation and inspect the window unit's side panels and top sash gap. 2. Fit foam side-panel inserts and seal the accordion panels' edges with removable weatherseal. 3. Close the top sash gap with a foam seal strip and add exterior drip protection if water can enter. 4. Check from inside on a bright day for remaining light gaps and seal them. 5. Photograph each sealed gap before and after, GPS-tagged and dated. Done when: before/after photos of each sealed gap around the unit

Where

Invited homes near S 6th St & E Race St, Yakima, WA 98901

Pay

$168 proposed

This packet is not funded yet, so this figure is a proposed price and not money waiting in escrow. If a buyer funds it, approved proof settles that price onchain. If nobody funds it, approved proof earns provable credit toward the work instead of cash. You see which before you claim, never after.

Proof

before/after photos of each sealed gap around the unit

This is exactly what gets it approved. Nothing settles without it.

Level

entry

Open until

2026-09-03

How this work is done

A documented method, so this packet comes out the same whoever does it. Typically 45–120 minutes. Method of record: US DOE Weatherization Assistance Program DIY-safe air-sealing measures + ENERGY STAR DIY Guide to Sealing and Insulating. Occupant-safe caulk/weatherstrip work only; no combustion, electrical, insulation-removal, or pre-1978 paint disturbance.

Bring

• camera
• caulk gun + paintable/silicone caulk
• weatherstripping + door sweeps
• foam outlet/switch gaskets
• utility knife + putty knife
• tape measure
• gloves + safety glasses

Steps

1. 1. Photograph each draft location (window trim, door, outlet, penetration) before sealing.
2. 2. Confirm the home is post-1978 or the surfaces are lead-safe; if pre-1978 with disturbed paint, STOP and flag for a lead-safe pro.
3. 3. Clean and dry each gap; remove old failed caulk/weatherstrip with the putty knife.
4. 4. Apply a continuous caulk bead to fixed gaps (window/door trim, penetrations) and tool it smooth.
5. 5. Install weatherstripping on operable window/door edges so it compresses without binding the sash/door.
6. 6. Fit door sweeps to exterior doors and foam gaskets behind outlet/switch plates on exterior walls.
7. 7. Verify each treated opening closes/latches and the seal is continuous; photograph the finished work.
8. 8. Enter locations sealed, materials used, before/after photos, and any flagged hazard into the proof record; sign.

If it does not match the plan

• Pre-1978 home with peeling/chipping paint on the work surface -> STOP: do not scrape/disturb; route to an EPA RRP lead-safe certified pro.
• Gas appliance, water heater, or fireplace in the space -> do not tighten a combustion-air/venting path; leave required make-up air and flag for a weatherization pro (backdraft/CO risk).
• Active moisture, mold, or rot at the opening -> fix the moisture source first; do not seal moisture in.

What counts as done

• Before and after photos of each sealed location
• Continuous caulk bead on fixed gaps and weatherstripping that compresses without binding
• Door sweeps and outlet gaskets installed on exterior openings/walls as scoped
• Every treated door/window still closes and latches after sealing

Proof is measured against these, not judged by taste.