Seal the gaps around the window air conditioners in an invited south Redding home

Window air conditioners keep south Redding alive in summer, but most sit in gaps stuffed with cardboard and towels that leak the cooled air straight outside and the 110°F air straight in. Proper side-panel seals and foam around each unit cut the waste and let the same unit actually cool the room. Standard: U.S. DOE Energy Saver room-AC installation and sealing guidance; SDG 7 Affordable and Clean Energy. Proof: Before/after photos of each sealed unit Method (U.S. DOE Energy Saver room-AC installation and sealing guidance; SDG 7 Affordable and Clean Energy.): 1. Confirm the invitation and photograph each window unit and its gaps. 2. Check each unit sits secure and slightly tilted out for drainage before sealing. 3. Fit rigid side-panel inserts or cut foam board to close the accordion-panel gaps. 4. Seal the sash meeting gap with foam strip and the exterior perimeter with removable caulk. 5. Photograph each sealed unit inside and out and log the count. Done when: Before/after photos of each sealed unit

Where

Invited homes, south Redding blocks off Hartnell Avenue, Redding, CA 96002

Pay

$160 proposed

This packet is not funded yet, so this figure is a proposed price and not money waiting in escrow. If a buyer funds it, approved proof settles that price onchain. If nobody funds it, approved proof earns provable credit toward the work instead of cash. You see which before you claim, never after.

Proof

Before/after photos of each sealed unit

This is exactly what gets it approved. Nothing settles without it.

Level

entry

Open until

2026-09-03

How this work is done

A documented method, so this packet comes out the same whoever does it. Typically 45–120 minutes. Method of record: US DOE Weatherization Assistance Program DIY-safe air-sealing measures + ENERGY STAR DIY Guide to Sealing and Insulating. Occupant-safe caulk/weatherstrip work only; no combustion, electrical, insulation-removal, or pre-1978 paint disturbance.

Bring

• camera
• caulk gun + paintable/silicone caulk
• weatherstripping + door sweeps
• foam outlet/switch gaskets
• utility knife + putty knife
• tape measure
• gloves + safety glasses

Steps

1. 1. Photograph each draft location (window trim, door, outlet, penetration) before sealing.
2. 2. Confirm the home is post-1978 or the surfaces are lead-safe; if pre-1978 with disturbed paint, STOP and flag for a lead-safe pro.
3. 3. Clean and dry each gap; remove old failed caulk/weatherstrip with the putty knife.
4. 4. Apply a continuous caulk bead to fixed gaps (window/door trim, penetrations) and tool it smooth.
5. 5. Install weatherstripping on operable window/door edges so it compresses without binding the sash/door.
6. 6. Fit door sweeps to exterior doors and foam gaskets behind outlet/switch plates on exterior walls.
7. 7. Verify each treated opening closes/latches and the seal is continuous; photograph the finished work.
8. 8. Enter locations sealed, materials used, before/after photos, and any flagged hazard into the proof record; sign.

If it does not match the plan

• Pre-1978 home with peeling/chipping paint on the work surface -> STOP: do not scrape/disturb; route to an EPA RRP lead-safe certified pro.
• Gas appliance, water heater, or fireplace in the space -> do not tighten a combustion-air/venting path; leave required make-up air and flag for a weatherization pro (backdraft/CO risk).
• Active moisture, mold, or rot at the opening -> fix the moisture source first; do not seal moisture in.

What counts as done

• Before and after photos of each sealed location
• Continuous caulk bead on fixed gaps and weatherstripping that compresses without binding
• Door sweeps and outlet gaskets installed on exterior openings/walls as scoped
• Every treated door/window still closes and latches after sealing

Proof is measured against these, not judged by taste.