Seal the attic bypasses in an invited Seaside home

Seaside's working-class neighborhoods carry post-war homes with open attic bypasses around plumbing stacks and wiring chases that let conditioned air leak straight into the attic. Foam-sealing those bypasses is a bounded job that noticeably steadies the home's temperature. Standard: DOE weatherization-assistance air-sealing practice — SDG 7. Proof: Before/after photos of each sealed bypass Method (DOE weatherization-assistance air-sealing practice — SDG 7.): 1. Locate attic bypasses around plumbing, wiring, and duct penetrations. 2. Clear debris from around each bypass. 3. Foam-seal each bypass per product instructions. 4. Check the seal is complete and firm. 5. Photograph each sealed bypass with GPS and date. Done when: Before/after photos of each sealed bypass

Where

Invited home near Broadway Ave, Seaside, CA 93955

Pay

$260 proposed

This packet is not funded yet, so this figure is a proposed price and not money waiting in escrow. If a buyer funds it, approved proof settles that price onchain. If nobody funds it, approved proof earns provable credit toward the work instead of cash. You see which before you claim, never after.

Proof

Before/after photos of each sealed bypass

This is exactly what gets it approved. Nothing settles without it.

Level

intermediate

Open until

2026-09-03

How this work is done

A documented method, so this packet comes out the same whoever does it. Typically 60–150 minutes. Method of record: Cold-climate building-envelope weatherization install (DOE WAP install practice + BPI combustion-safety-first sequencing; storm windows/doors, attic-bypass air-sealing, rim-joist insulation, pipe freeze-protection) -- hands-on install, not a survey; assess->prep->install->verify

Bring

• caulk gun + backer rod
• low-expansion spray-foam sealant (fire-rated where required)
• storm window/door kit or rigid-foam rim-joist batts
• heat-tape + pipe-insulation sleeves (freeze-protection runs)
• camera
• tape measure + utility knife

Steps

1. 1. Confirm the scope with the occupant/facility manager against the readiness survey's ranked target list (or a fresh walk if none exists); photograph the untreated bypass, window, rim-joist run or pipe run.
2. 2. Prep the surface: clean and dry the substrate, remove failed old caulk or weatherstripping, and clear any debris blocking the install.
3. 3. Install the sealing/insulation material to the target's spec -- storm window/door, spray-foam bypass seal, rim-joist rigid-foam batt, or heat-tape plus pipe-insulation sleeve -- per manufacturer instructions.
4. 4. Verify the result (smoke-pencil/hand check for bypass work, fit-and-lock check for storm windows/doors, continuous-coverage check for rim-joist or pipe insulation) and photograph the finished install from the same vantage.
5. 5. Note any combustion-safety or moisture flag surfaced during the install and route it to a BPI-qualified pro before continuing to the next target.

If it does not match the plan

• Active combustion appliance near the work point (water heater, furnace) -> confirm CO/backdraft clearance before sealing anything that could starve its air supply; screen with a CO monitor first if no clearance is on record.
• Wet or actively leaking assembly at the install point -> stop, do not insulate over it; flag for moisture repair before any sealing or insulation proceeds.
• Knob-and-tube or exposed/scorched wiring in the work area -> stop-work and route to a licensed electrician before insulating.

What counts as done

• Before photo of the untreated bypass/window/rim-joist/pipe run
• After photo from matching vantage showing the completed seal, insulation or install
• Seal or fit verified (smoke-pencil, lock-and-latch, or continuous-coverage check) and recorded
• Any combustion-safety or moisture flag surfaced during install routed to a BPI-qualified pro

Proof is measured against these, not judged by taste.