Water the young street trees on Azusa's south-side blocks each week (2026-08-03)

Azusa's south side, between the freeway and the rock plants, has thinner canopy than the foothill neighborhoods and its young street trees dry out fast in the valley heat. A weekly watering round through establishment secures the shade these blocks are owed. Standard: ISA young-tree establishment care guidance; SDG 11 (Sustainable Cities and Communities). Proof: Wet-basin photos per tree plus run sheet Method (ISA young-tree establishment care guidance; SDG 11 (Sustainable Cities and Communities).): 1. Number the young trees on the assigned blocks on a run sheet. 2. Deep-water each with ten to fifteen gallons poured slowly. 3. Weed basins and top up mulch clear of trunks. 4. Note damage or losses. 5. Photograph each wet basin and the sheet with date and GPS. Done when: Photos of at least eight watered basins; Photo of the run sheet; GPS-tagged start and end photos with date

Where

Young street trees, blocks near Gladstone St, Azusa, CA 91702

Pay

$160 proposed

This packet is not funded yet, so this figure is a proposed price and not money waiting in escrow. If a buyer funds it, approved proof settles that price onchain. If nobody funds it, approved proof earns provable credit toward the work instead of cash. You see which before you claim, never after.

Proof

Wet-basin photos per tree plus run sheet

This is exactly what gets it approved. Nothing settles without it.

Level

entry

Open until

2026-08-10

How this work is done

A documented method, so this packet comes out the same whoever does it. Typically 45–90 minutes. Method of record: ANSI A300 Part 6 (Planting) + ISA Best Management Practices for tree planting & establishment; Arbor Day Foundation planting standard. DIY-safe volunteer planting on cleared, utility-marked ground; no mechanized or utility-conflict digging.

Bring

• GPS-capable phone
• camera
• round-point shovel + digging fork
• hand pruners
• mulch (wood chips) + measuring stick
• watering can or hose
• gloves + closed-toe boots

Steps

1. 1. Confirm the planting spot is inside the posting radius and clear of marked utilities (811 locate honored); record the GPS waypoint.
2. 2. Photograph the bare site and the nursery stock (label/species visible) before planting.
3. 3. Dig the hole 2-3x the root-ball width and no deeper than the root ball, so the root flare will sit at or just above grade.
4. 4. Remove the container or cut away burlap/wire, gently loosen circling roots, and set the tree with the root flare visible at grade.
5. 5. Backfill with the native soil in layers, firming out air pockets; do not bury the root flare or amend heavily.
6. 6. Build a shallow watering basin, water in slowly until the backfill is saturated, and apply 2-3 inches of mulch kept 3 inches off the trunk.
7. 7. Stake only if the tree cannot stand on its own; use two loose ties that allow trunk movement, and note a removal date within one year.
8. 8. Record species, GPS, before/after photos, root-flare-at-grade confirmation, mulch depth, and water applied into the proof record; sign.

If it does not match the plan

• Unmarked or suspected buried utility, or the 811 locate is not honored -> STOP: do not dig; reschedule after a confirmed locate.
• Root ball is dry, circling/kinked, or the trunk is wounded -> do not plant as-is; soak/correct or reject the stock and note it, rather than establish a failing tree.
• Right-of-way, overhead-line conflict, or a species/site mismatch -> flag for the site steward and choose an approved spot/species; never plant into a conflict.

What counts as done

• Photos of at least eight watered basins
• Photo of the run sheet
• GPS-tagged start and end photos with date

Proof is measured against these, not judged by taste.

The standard this serves

Tree Planting and Establishment. Planting a tree properly is a codified craft, and the arborists' standards are blunt about why: most young trees that die were killed at planting, by a hole dug too deep, a root ball left bound, a first summer without water. Mastery looks like trees you planted years ago still standing, which is the only measure arborists accept. The craft lives in exactly the steps this packet asks for: the wide shallow hole, the freed roots, the mulch kept off the trunk, the watering that follows. Plant one tree correctly and you know something real.